Saturday afternoon at the WVU Core Arboretum, leaves of orange and brown crunched underfoot, and the scent of fried dough carried on a warm, slightly overcast breeze — a clear sign that fall is on its way. Hundreds of people lined up, stretching all the way to the arboretum’s parking lot. Why? Pawpaws, of course.
At the arboretum’s 7th annual WV Pawpaw Festival, pawpaw enthusiasts and curious passersby alike gathered to sample and purchase the unique fall fruit in all of its forms: seeds, saplings, raw fruit and pawpaw-themed dishes.
The pawpaw is a green, mango-shaped fruit with a soft, yellow core and dark, bean-shaped seeds. Its historic and cultural roots in Appalachia are deep and rich, yet many West Virginians have never had the chance to taste one. The festival seeks to change that by bridging the gap between Morgantown and this elusive fruit.
And so, at noon sharp, I set out to try the mythical pawpaw for the first time.
After collecting various pawpaw delicacies from festival vendors, including Hill & Hollow’s pawpaw chicken curry, ice cream, and bread pudding, as well as three varieties of raw pawpaw from Deep Run Pawpaw Orchard of Westminster, Maryland, I was inducted into the pawpaw fan club.
Banana, mango or pineapple are common descriptors for the fruit’s tropical yet familiar taste. To my amateur palate, the pawpaw evoked flavors of cantaloupe and honeydew, with a texture reminiscent of avocado or ripe banana. The fruit’s flavor, though less potent when cooked, remained distinct in the dishes crafted by Hill & Hollow’s Chef Marion Ohlinger.
Earthy, sweet and unlike any other fruit — pawpaws are purely Appalachian.
The festival started with 500 pounds of pawpaws, and within just two hours of opening, the supply was dwindling beneath the force of eager attendees.
“It never ceases to be a wonderful experience to see this many people come out,” said arboretum director Zach Fowler. “I feel lucky to be the one who gets to help people connect with [pawpaws] and share it with people.”
Luckily, the festival doesn’t end after sampling a pawpaw.
Local organizations like the WVU Department of Biology, Local Science Engagement Network, North American Pawpaw Growers Association and pawpaw experts like Neal Peterson and Andrew Moore were present, sharing knowledge and resources. Ambiance and entertainment was provided by a lineup of local artists like Buffalo Run and the WVU Bluegrass Band.
Hundreds of pawpaw saplings and other native plants were also available for purchase. Many attendees could be seen walking the arboretum’s ground with miniature pawpaw trees hugged proudly between their arms, fulfilling a key part of the festival’s mission. By not only sampling pawpaws but cultivating their own, attendees can help expand the population of pawpaw trees across West Virginia and beyond.
In fact, dozens of previous festival-goers have reported successful pawpaw trees grown from seeds taken home from the event.
“It’s really important because [pawpaws aren’t] readily available at grocery stores, so just having an opportunity to sample it, try it, what more could you ask for?” said Moore. “I think celebrating the fruit is just a way of celebrating the bounty of nature and what’s special about where we live.”
Despite the occasional raindrop, festival attendees fulfilled the event’s ethos by celebrating both nature and the community.
Between sets by local musicians, families and friends of all ages gathered on picnic blankets beneath the branches of towering pines with plates of pawpaw treats held aloft. By their sides sat paper bags weighed down with raw pawpaws and fresh-faced pawpaw sprouts waiting for new beginnings.
The festival also showcased the WVU Core Arboretum’s mission and amenities. In previous years, attendees wondered how they might observe a mature pawpaw tree. Yesterday, visitors were invited to follow signs to the “Pawpaw Patch,” a cluster of wild pawpaw trees growing along one of the arboretum’s trails.
If you missed yesterday’s festival, don’t worry — the 8th annual WV Pawpaw Festival will be held next September. Keep an eye on the WVU Core Arboretum’s website and Facebook page for updates at arboretum.wvu.edu and Facebook.com/WVUCoreArboretum.
“It’s something you’ve got to come out and experience,” said Fowler. “If you want any words of advice, come early, get in line, buy your fruit, then spend the rest of the time to check out the other booths, listen to some music, listen to the talk and hike to the pawpaw patch.”
