Today, I’m busting a myth: Not all sumac is poisonous. Recently chatting with friends, I mentioned this weedy but useful tree. As soon as I said sumac, they got nervous and asked, “you mean poison sumac?”
Yes, there is poisonous sumac, and both poison ivy and poison oak are in the same family (Anacardiaceae). All are in the cashew family, which includes many edible members, with, of course cashews, but also mangos and pistachios.
The sumac abundant in this area — the staghorn sumac — has tart, fuzzy red seeds growing in a cluster with a pointy top. They leave a slightly sticky residue on your fingers when you touch them.
From what I’ve learned, all red berried sumacs are edible — white berried sumacs are the ones you want to look out for and avoid. As always, when foraging, use reliable sources to make proper identifications.
The staghorn sumac, a relatively small tree (8 to 30 feet tall), is easy to identify and to use. It derives its name from its soft, slightly fuzzy stems. It grows in clusters, and can become a weed (I’ve had to cut more than a few out of my garden), because it spreads mostly via suckers.
Sumac clusters thrive in full sun in zones four to eight. The large compound leaves lend it an almost tropical look, which in combination with its vibrant red upright clusters of red seeds/berries give beautiful diversity to our landscapes.
In addition to being visually nice, staghorn sumac is edible — and quite tasty. A common and easy use for the red berries is a lemonade-like drink.
To make this refreshing beverage, harvest ripe (red and tart) berries anytime from around now (some berries may stay good through spring if the weather isn’t too wet and birds don’t eat them). Test readiness by touching the clusters and tasting the sticky sap left on your fingers. Do this to make sure the rain has not washed away the acid.
To harvest, use clippers to cut off the berry cluster. Remove as much of the stems as possible, and soak several clusters of berries in cold or tepid water overnight. Don’t heat the berries, as they contain tannic acid, which when heated releases a bitter taste into the water.
After soaking, strain the liquid through a double cloth, to remove all the little hairs from the drink. Sweeten (best with local sweetener such as honey or maple syrup) and enjoy.
Ground and dried berries retain their beautiful red color and tart flavor, and make a wonderful seasoning. Use it in hummus or any savory dish calling for lemon. Za’atar seasoning blends often include sumac. A popular seasoning in Middle Eastern cuisine, but the entire plant was also used by Native Americans. Confirming my facts about this cool plant, I learned that indigenous peoples used various types of sumac — including the staghorn sumac — for culinary and medicinal applications.
Sumac berries also make nice dried floral arrangements, and the entire plant is useful for dyeing fabric.
Since it grows so easily in this area, I’ve often wondered why it hasn’t made its way into our diets as a staple. If it is the connotation of “poisonous,” I hope that fades and more people start enjoying the tangy spice and drink it can yield.
Next time you’re foraging, consider bringing home some of these velvety red clusters, and skipping a few of the lemons on your next grocery pickup.
